First-time author Norma Maret Bolin’s “The Route 66 St. Louis Cookbook” has the words “St. Louis” in slightly larger type than the rest of the title of the book’s cover.
This is telling. Her book (paperback, 174 pages, $19.95) is considerably more focused on famed restaurants of the entire St. Louis area than just those on Route 66 itself. This is not a bad thing. The Gateway City has been long-known by well-traveled foodies as a great (and relatively inexpensive) restaurant town. So anyone who is able to acquire recipes from those great eateries should be encouraged.
Bolin is a native Texan who moved to St. Louis in 1986 and is experienced in the food service industry. She says she caught the Route 66 bug when she and her 7-year-old son first saw the movie “Cars” in 2006. As she researched the Mother Road, she became enamored with it. Her work eventually resulted in the cookbook. Bolin also is planning the publication of a “Route 66 St. Louis” book sometime this year.
It’s difficult to tell that Bolin is a first-time author. The book looks attractive, contains a nice balance of history and memorabilia (including old menus), and turns out to be surprisingly comprehensive. More than 150 recipes are featured.
There are recipes from defunct eateries (White Squirrel, Miss Hulling’s Cafeteria, Busch’s Grove, Henry VIII Inn), higher-end restaurants (Tony’s, Johnny Gitto’s), and even old-time diners (White Castle, Steak ‘n Shake, Spencer’s Grill). Bolin found these recipes through a variety of sources, including decades-old articles in magazines and newspapers.
Don’t look for closely guarded recipes such as Hodak’s fried chicken or Ted Drewes’ frozen custard (although the book sports other recipes from those places). However, the book contains instructions on how to make other cherished St. Louis food, such as gooey butter cake and slingers (if you don’t know what the latter is, ask a St. Louisian).
The book ventures hundreds of miles outside its boundaries to snag recipes from Lou Mitchell’s Restaurant (in Chicago) and Granny Shaffer’s (in Joplin, Mo.). As a bonus, “The Route 66 St. Louis Cookbook” passes on tips on how to throw a Route 66 party or organize Route 66 scavenger hunts. Adults with children will likely enjoy those additions.
The cookbook will inevitably be compared to Marian Clark’s well-regarded Route 66 cookbooks. Bolin’s volume won’t replace Clark’s (after all, Clark’s cookbooks encompass all 2,200 miles of Route 66). However, “The Route 66 St. Louis Cookbook” will serve as a worthwhile supplement, especially to roadies in Illinois and Missouri and expatriates from St. Louis.
(Note: Bolin’s book is sold at The Book House in Rock Hill, Mo.; Webster Groves Bookshop in Webster Groves, Mo.; Down by the Station in Kirkwood, Mo.; Route 66 State Park near Eureka, Mo.; and Meramec Valley Historical Museum in Pacific, Mo. Bolin will also have a book-signing at 7 p.m. May 7 at Blueberry Hill in University City, Mo. Other book-signing events can be found here. The book also can be ordered here.)